Hoa Lu was the capital of Vietnam from 968 to 1010. The Trang An management board calls it the first capital of a centralised feudal state in Vietnam and the home region of the national hero Dinh Bo Linh. It lasted 42 years under three dynasties in a row: the Dinh, the Early Le and the Ly.
In 1010 Emperor Ly Thai To moved the capital from Hoa Lu to Thang Long, today's Hanoi. Later dynasties kept repairing the old capital and added temples, tombs, communal houses and pagodas. Hoa Lu sits inside the Trang An World Heritage area.
The best known building is the Temple of King Dinh Tien Hoang, in the old village of Truong Yen. Wikipedia places it at the center of the former Eastern citadel, built on the foundations of the old palace. It is the only place in Vietnam that honours Dinh Tien Hoang together with his parents and sons. The temple faces Ma Yen, a saddle-shaped hill with his tomb on top.
Hoa Lu's best known story is about Dinh Tien Hoang as a boy. Legend says Dinh Bo Linh led the local buffalo herders in mock battles with reed flowers for flags, and the old court chronicle Dai Viet Su Ky Toan Thu says the children crossed their hands to carry him like a king, holding reed flowers on either side. The Hoa Lu festival, held at Truong Yen in the third lunar month, still opens with boys dressed as cowherds carrying reed flags.
Getting there
In a straight line on map coordinates, Hoa Lu is about 87 km from Hoan Kiem Lake in Hanoi. The Trang An boat center is about 4 km away and Tam Coc about 5 km, so the three fit into one day. Our Hanoi to Ninh Binh train guide covers the train from Hanoi.
Hours and fees
The Trang An management board's price list gives these prices for the Hoa Lu Ancient Capital relic site:
| Ticket | Price |
|---|---|
| Adult | VND 20,000 |
| Child aged 6 to 15 | VND 10,000 |
| Aged 60 and over, or disabled | VND 10,000 |
The same list says the Hoa Lu old quarter is free to walk. Neither the board's page nor the Ninh Binh provincial ticket list publishes opening hours for Hoa Lu. Our Trang An boat tour price article lists the other Ninh Binh tickets you might combine with it.
Nearby
Questions travelers ask
Is Hoa Lu worth the time next to the boat trips? A traveler asked r/VietNam whether to see Ninh Binh on a tour or alone. Two replies mentioned Hoa Lu:
"The town are relatively small and easy to navigate between Tam Coc/Trang An/Hoa Lu by motorbike."
u/Alohagrown on r/VietNam
"I spent more time at trang an, Bai Dinh and old town hoa Lu then I did at tam coc."
u/xTroiOix on r/VietNam
