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Phong Nha itinerary: how to spend 1, 2 or 3 days

This plan suits anyone who wants the big caves without a tour: you sleep in Phong Nha town (Son Trach), where the cave boats leave from the pier, and go out by taxi, a hired driver or a rented motorbike, because no public bus runs to Paradise Cave or Dark Cave. Come between February and August; from September to December floods can shut the river caves at short notice, as they did on 30 October 2025. The park board gives a summer and a winter timetable without saying which months are which, so every day below fits the shorter winter hours. Book Son Doong two years or more ahead with Oxalis, the only company allowed in, and the Paradise Cave 7 km tour a few days ahead.

On this page

How many days

  • 1 day: Day 1

    Paradise Cave in the morning and the Phong Nha Cave boat in the afternoon: the two caves most people come for, and a full day.

  • 2 days: Days 1 to 2

    Adds the Chay River and Dark Cave, with lunch and a walk at Nuoc Mooc spring and a stop at the Hang Tam Co memorial.

  • 3 days: Days 1 to 3

    Adds the Botanic Garden walk to Thac Gio waterfall and a lunch ride out to the Bong Lai valley; Son Doong and Hang En are separate multi-day treks.

Day 1

Paradise Cave and the Phong Nha Cave boat

Paradise Cave first, while the walk up to its entrance is still cool, then lunch in town and the afternoon boat into Phong Nha Cave. Then We Walked, who did it this way, called it a very full day but doable.

07:00 to about 18:00 · 5 stops · entry fees VND 420,000 a person

123455 km
Numbers follow the plan below; solid lines by road, dotted on foot, dashed by boat, train or cable car. Map: © OpenStreetMap contributors, Natural Earth.
  1. 07:001
    Hotels and guesthouses along the main road of Phong Nha town

    Eat · 45 min

    Breakfast near Phong Nha market

    Cost: Street breakfast; prices vary by stall

    Eat in town before you set out. The streets around the market and the river are where most visitors stay, close to the cafes, and where drivers and motorbike shops are. Fill your water bottle here too, because the climb at Paradise Cave is 500 m up from the foot of the mountain and the walkway inside runs for 1 km of wooden stairs, so wear shoes with grip.

    Image: Edgardo W. Olivera / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0

    About 20 min by taxi or Grab, 21.8 km. 22 km. No public bus goes there; Thang Phong Nha Rider drives you to Paradise Cave and Dark Cave for VND 350,000, tickets not included.

  2. 08:052
    A lit wooden boardwalk winding between huge stalactites and stalagmites in a vast chamber of Paradise Cave

    Sight · 2 h 30 min

    Paradise Cave (Thien Duong)

    Cost: Adult, gate and electric car included; children 1.1 to 1.3 m VND 145,000, under 1.1 m free

    From the gate you ride the electric car, or walk, 1.6 km under the forest, then climb 500 m to the cave mouth and walk the 1 km of wooden stairs and walkways through chambers up to 150 m wide. Neither the park board nor the operator publishes opening hours; the 7 km tour leaves the tourist centre at 08:00, so the site is working by then, but call the sales office on (0232) 3 818181 the day before. Take your time inside: it is the size of the halls you came for.

    Hours, fees and how to get there: Paradise Cave

    Image: Nguyenanh1286 / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

    About 20 min by taxi or Grab, 22 km. Back to town, 22 km.

  3. 11:153
    The Son River waterfront in Phong Nha town, tour boats moored below a church spire and misty hills

    Eat · 1 h 15 min

    Lunch in Phong Nha town

    Cost: Meals vary; pay in cash at small places

    Have lunch on the main road by the river and rest out of the midday sun before the boat. The cave boat is priced per boat, not per person, so lunch is a good time to find others from your guesthouse to share it: the VND 700,000 return trip carries up to 12 people. In winter the cave closes at 15:45, so be at the counter by 13:00.

    Image: Preparetavalise.com / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

    About 5 min walk, 0.6 km. To the ticket counter for Phong Nha Cave and Tien Son Cave by the river.

  4. 13:004
    A blue tour boat moored on the green underground river inside Phong Nha Cave, with lit rock walls and a wooden stairway behind

    Sight · 2 h 30 min

    Phong Nha Cave by boat

    Cost: Entry per person (under 1.3 m free), plus VND 700,000 per boat, return, up to 12 people

    Buy your entry at the counter, then walk to the landing on the left and take a boat number. The boat runs about 30 minutes up the Son River past paddies and limestone cliffs, cuts its engine at the cave mouth and is rowed along about 1,200 m of lit underground river, then you walk two dry chambers on a boardwalk. Allow two and a half hours. For VND 750,000 the boat also stops at Tien Son Cave, 100 m above, which has its own VND 80,000 ticket.

    Hours, fees and how to get there: Phong Nha Cave

    Image: Andre Hospers / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 4.0

    About 15 min walk, 1 km. Back along the river road.

  5. 18:005
    Phong Nha town strung along the Son River below green karst hills, seen from the air

    Eat · 1 h 30 min

    Dinner in town

    Cost: Meals vary

    Eat in the centre rather than at a place out of town: Colleen Sims of Then We Walked found most travellers staying near the river and the cafes, and warns that some out-of-town spots are hard to reach by taxi or Grab at night. If you plan Dark Cave tomorrow, sort out a driver or a motorbike now; Thang Phong Nha Rider rents a 50cc bike with a helmet for VND 150,000 a day.

    Image: Florian Delee / Unsplash

Day 2

Chay River, Dark Cave and Nuoc Mooc spring

The active day: the zipline, Dark Cave and its mud bath in the morning, lunch and a cool walk at Nuoc Mooc spring a few minutes away, then the Hang Tam Co memorial on Road 20 on the way back.

07:15 to about 18:00 · 6 stops · entry fees VND 530,000 a person

1234565 km
Numbers follow the plan below; solid lines by road, dotted on foot, dashed by boat, train or cable car. Map: © OpenStreetMap contributors, Natural Earth.
  1. 07:151

    Eat · 30 min

    Breakfast and kit check in town

    Cost: Prices vary

    Eat lightly: you will be swimming and climbing all morning. For the mud bath the park board asks women to wear a two-piece swimsuit and men swim shorts, so put it on under your clothes, and pack a towel and a change of clothes. Leave valuables at your guesthouse; waterproof phone pouches are sold at the site.

    About 15 min by taxi or Grab, 18.6 km. 18 km.

  2. 08:002
    Aerial view of forested limestone peaks in Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park in haze (the park around Dark Cave, not the cave itself)

    Do · Half a day

    Chay River and Dark Cave

    Cost: Explore package with Dark Cave and the mud bath; the VND 220,000 standard package leaves out the cave

    Buy the explore package: it is the only one that takes you into Dark Cave. You ride the 400 m twin zipline across the Chay River to the cave mouth, walk in to the mud pool, then come back for kayaks, a short zipline into the water and river games. The board says to allow about four hours. The site opens at 08:00 in winter (07:45 in summer). The mud bath needs a height of 1.1 m and the long zipline a weight over 40 kg.

    Hours, fees and how to get there: Chay River and Dark Cave

    Image: Preparetavalise.com / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

    About 5 min by taxi or Grab, 2.9 km. 3 km.

  3. 12:153

    Eat · 1 h

    Lunch at Nuoc Mooc spring

    Cost: Meals vary

    The park board calls Nuoc Mooc the natural rest stop after the caves and lists the local food served here on a woven tray: stream shrimp (tom khe), stream fish (ca suoi) and free-range hill chicken. The restaurant sits by the entrance to the spring, so you can eat before you buy a trail ticket. Order early if a tour group has just arrived.

    Walk. To the spring gate next door.

  4. 13:154

    Do · 1 h 30 min

    Nuoc Mooc eco trail

    Cost: Sightseeing only; swim packages at Ghenh Mooc or Ghenh Chum VND 130,000 from October to March, VND 160,000 from April to September

    Here a stream wells up out of the mountain, and the board says the water stays at 16 to 18 C even in summer. The sightseeing ticket takes you from the gate along the forest to the Ghenh Chum bridge and back on the far bank. If you want a swim and a kayak, buy a Ghenh Mooc or Ghenh Chum package instead. The site keeps the same hours as Dark Cave: in winter it closes at 15:30, in summer at 16:30.

    About 10 min by taxi or Grab, 9.9 km. Road 20, about 10 km.

  5. 15:005

    Sight · 30 min

    Hang Tam Co memorial, Road 20

    Cost: No ticket

    On 14 November 1972 bombs sealed a small cave at km 16 of Road 20, a wartime supply road, killing eight young volunteers, four men and four women, who had run inside for shelter. The cave is now their common grave, with a memorial temple where people come to light incense. The park board lists it as a place of remembrance with no ticket. Dress modestly, speak quietly and do not climb on the rocks.

    About 15 min by taxi or Grab, 17.5 km. Back to town, about 17 km.

  6. 18:006
    Phong Nha town from the air before sunset, boats moored on the Son River below the karst peaks

    Eat · 1 h 30 min

    Dinner in town

    Cost: Meals vary

    Back in town, wash the mud off and eat near the river. If rain has been heavy, check the Phong Nha-Ke Bang tourism centre's Facebook page tonight: in a wet autumn it posts closures of Phong Nha Cave, the Chay River and Dark Cave, and Nuoc Mooc, as it did on 30 October 2025. Tomorrow's Botanic Garden walk is the better plan if the rivers are high.

    Image: Kris Martyn / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

Day 3

Botanic Garden waterfall and the Bong Lai valley

A drier, slower day: a morning forest walk to Thac Gio waterfall in the park's Botanic Garden, then a ride east through the Bong Lai valley for lunch and a lookout. If you want a third day underground instead, the Paradise Cave 7 km tour runs from 08:00 to 16:00.

07:30 to about 18:00 · 5 stops · entry fees VND 80,000 a person

123452 km
Numbers follow the plan below; solid lines by road, dotted on foot, dashed by boat, train or cable car. Map: © OpenStreetMap contributors, Natural Earth.
  1. 07:301

    Eat · 30 min

    Breakfast in town

    Cost: Prices vary

    If you are riding yourself today, pick up the bike now: Thang Phong Nha Rider on road DT20 rents 50cc motorbikes for VND 150,000 a day with a helmet and breakdown service. You need a licence that is valid in Vietnam. Otherwise book a driver for the morning and the afternoon, since the Botanic Garden and Bong Lai lie in opposite directions from town.

    About 10 min by motorbike, 8.8 km. Road 20 south of town, about 8 km.

  2. 08:152
    A small waterfall over dark rocks in thick forest, a Phong Nha Botanic Garden sign above it

    Do · 2 h 30 min

    Phong Nha Botanic Garden and Thac Gio waterfall

    Cost: Per visitor; children under 1.3 m free

    The park's Botanic Garden sits beside Road 20 and covers 77.1 ha of forest. Three marked walks start at the display house: the shortest goes straight to Thac Gio, a waterfall over 30 m high, in 30 to 60 minutes; the longest adds Vang Anh lake, a hundred-year-old Sao tree and a viewpoint, about two to three hours. The board publishes no opening hours, so ask where you stay or check at the gate. Bring water and insect repellent.

    Image: Tht481 / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

    About 20 min by motorbike, 14.3 km. Back through town and east to Bong Lai, about 18 km.

  3. 11:303
    A plate of Vietnamese grilled chicken with pickled vegetables and a chilli dip

    Eat · 1 h 30 min

    Lunch at the Pub With Cold Beer, Bong Lai

    Cost: Meal prices at the counter

    Vietnam Tourism, the national tourism site, sends visitors out to Bong Lai village for the Pub With Cold Beer, where the one thing on the menu is grilled chicken with homemade peanut sauce. The same page suggests hiring a bike for the trip out. Ask the price of the chicken before you order, and come before the lunch crowd.

    Image: Phuong Huy / Wikimedia Commons, CC0

    About 5 min by motorbike, 0.5 km. A few hundred metres along the valley.

  4. 13:154

    View · 1 h

    Wild Boar Eco Farm lookout

    Cost: Ask at the farm what it charges

    Vietnam Tourism's suggestion for after lunch is the lookout at Wild Boar Eco Farm, close to the pub. Vietnam Tourism calls it a pretty lookout over the valley. Give it an hour, then head back to town in the heat of the afternoon for a rest before dinner; if you rode out, the road back is the way you came.

    About 15 min by motorbike, 9.4 km. Back to town, about 10 km.

  5. 18:005
    Blue tour boats moored on the Son River at Phong Nha in the evening light, karst peaks behind

    Eat · 1 h 30 min

    Last dinner by the Son River

    Cost: Meals vary

    Plan your onward trip tonight. No public bus runs from Phong Nha to Dong Hoi, so book a taxi or Grab car for the 40 km to the station or the airport. Queen Cafe Bus runs sleepers between Central Backpackers Hostel in town and Hue, Da Nang and Hanoi; check the fare when you book, as its pages disagree. The tourist train HQ1 back to Hue leaves Tho Loc, 18 km away, at 13:15.

    Image: Mirjam Schuinder / Unsplash

Tips for Phong Nha

  • From September to December check the Phong Nha-Ke Bang tourism centre's Facebook page the day before: on 30 October 2025 it shut Phong Nha Cave, Tien Son Cave, the Chay River and Dark Cave, and Nuoc Mooc until further notice after heavy rain.
  • The Phong Nha Cave boat is VND 700,000 per boat for up to 12 people, so join others at the landing to cut your share; the entry ticket of VND 150,000 is per person.
  • The board gives summer and winter hours without naming the months, so plan around winter: Phong Nha Cave 07:30 to 15:45, Dark Cave and Nuoc Mooc 08:00 to 15:30.
  • Son Doong is a six-day Oxalis expedition at VND 80,000,000, January to August only, and Oxalis says some years are already full, so book two years or more ahead; the two-day Hang En trek is the realistic alternative.
  • There is no public bus from Dong Hoi to Phong Nha or out to the caves: use a taxi, a Grab car, a hired driver or a rented motorbike, and ask your guesthouse about pickups.
  • Book the Paradise Cave 7 km tour (VND 2,000,000 a person, two or more) or the overnight tour (VND 4,000,000, five or more guests, no one under 16) with the operator's sales office on (0232) 3 818181 before you arrive.
  • In June and July the monthly mean at Dong Hoi is near 30 C and June highs average 34 C, so start early and keep the long walks for the morning; the caves themselves are cooler.

Getting there, where to stay and the weather by month are on the Phong Nha page. Plan checked 24 October 2026.

Sources

Checked in October 2026.Show all 20 sources
  • phongnhakebang.vn. Paradise Cave adult VND 270,000 incl. gate and electric car; child 1.1 to 1.3 m VND 145,000; under 1.1 m free (as row 13 of place-phong-nha.sources.md).
  • phongnhakebang.vn. Phong Nha Cave entry VND 150,000 per person, under 1.3 m free; boat VND 700,000 return, up to 12 (as rows 8 and 9 of place-phong-nha.sources.md).
  • phongnhakebang.vn. Two-cave boat VND 750,000; Tien Son 100 m above Phong Nha Cave, ticket VND 80,000 (as rows 18 and 19 of place-phong-nha.sources.md).
  • phongnhakebang.vn. Dark Cave explore package VND 450,000 incl. Dark Cave and mud bath; standard VND 220,000 without the cave; hours summer 07:45 to 16:30, winter 08:00 to 15:30; about 4 hours (as rows 5, 7 and 8 of attr-dark-cave.sources.md).
  • phongnhakebang.vn. Nuoc Mooc about 20 minutes by car from Phong Nha Cave; the natural rest stop after the caves; water 16 to 18 C in summer.
  • phongnhakebang.vn. Hang Tam Co memorial at km 16 of Road 20 Quyet Thang; bombing on 14 November 1972; eight young volunteers, four men and four women, sheltering in the cave; a common grave; incense; no ticket.
  • phongnhakebang.vn. Botanic Garden beside Road 20, about 10 km from the park's tourism centre, 77.1 ha; Thac Gio waterfall over 30 m.
  • vietnam.travel. Vietnam Tourism: hire a bike to Bong Lai village for the Pub With Cold Beer, grilled chicken with homemade peanut sauce the only item; after lunch ride to the lookout at Wild Boar Eco Farm.
  • facebook.com. Tourism centre suspended visits at Phong Nha Cave, Tien Son Cave, Chay River and Dark Cave, Nuoc Mooc from 30/10/2025 (as row 2 of place-phong-nha.sources.md).
  • thangphongnharider.com. Thang Phong Nha Rider, DT20, Son Trach: 50cc VND 150,000 a day with helmet and breakdown service; driven trip to Paradise Cave and Dark Cave VND 350,000, tickets excluded (as row 52 of place-phong-nha.sources.md).
  • trungtambenxephiabacquangtri.vn. No public bus from Dong Hoi to Phong Nha (as row 50 of place-phong-nha.sources.md).
  • thenwewalked.com. Most travellers stay in Phong Nha village near the river and cafes; out-of-town spots tricky for taxis or Grab at night; Paradise in the morning and the boat in the afternoon, very full but doable (Then We Walked, as rows S6 and S7 of place-phong-nha.sources.md).
  • oxalisadventure.com. Son Doong: six days five nights; VND 80,000,000; January to the end of August; 2027 and 2028 fully booked (as rows 9, 17, 19 and 21 of attr-son-doong.sources.md).
  • oxalisadventure.com. Hang En: 2 days 1 night (as row 26 of attr-son-doong.sources.md).
  • queenbus.com.vn. Queen Cafe Bus drops at Central Backpackers Hostel from Hanoi, Hue and Da Nang; fares differ between its pages (as rows 32 to 35 of place-phong-nha.sources.md).
  • hanhtrinhdisanthegioi.dsvn.vn. HQ1 leaves Tho Loc 13:15 for Hue; Tho Loc 18 km from town (as rows 26 and 51 of place-phong-nha.sources.md).
  • datafiles.chinhphu.vn. Dong Hoi June mean daily maximum 34.0 C; June and July monthly mean 29.8 C (as row 6b of place-phong-nha.sources.md).
  • router.project-osrm.org. Drives (OSRM, our routing on the stop coordinates): town to Paradise Cave 21.4 km, 20 min; town to Dark Cave 18.9 km, 17 min; Dark Cave to Nuoc Mooc 2.8 km; Nuoc Mooc to Hang Tam Co 9.9 km, 8 min; Hang Tam Co to town 16.9 km, 16 min; town to Botanic Garden 8.2 km, 8 min; town to Pub With Cold Beer 9.8 km, 13 min.
  • openstreetmap.org. Stop points: Phong Nha Cave ticket office (node 2731032304), Phong Nha Market (way 478390237), Mooc Spring Restaurant (way 1202790606), Mooc spring (node 4409288093), Botanical Garden Ticket Office (node 5319294759), Eight ladies cave memorial (node 5353612634), Pub With Cold Beer (node 4279348989), Wild Boar Eco Farm (node 5174972221).
  • unsplash.com. Photo on the Wild Boar Eco Farm stop: gallery file phong-nha-hcxxyoqksk0 from data/vietnam-place-photos.json (George Pisarevsky, Unsplash License; a scooter rider above the karst valley, not the farm itself).